Chi Spacca: A New Approach to American Cooking - Hardcover

Silverton, Nancy; DeNicola, Ryan; Carreno, Carolynn

Hardcover

ISBN 10: 0525654658 ISBN 13: 9780525654650

Verlag: Knopf, 2020

Inhaltsangabe

From the James Beard Award-winning star of Netflix's Chef's Table: A whole new approach to American cooking, one that blends the cutting edge culinary ethos of Los Angeles, the timeless flavors of Italy, and the pleasures of grilling with fire. Featuring 100+ recipes from Chi Spacca, her acclaimed Los Angeles restaurant.

In her tenth cookbook, Nancy Silverton ("Queen of L.A.'s restaurant scene" --Los Angeles Times), shares the secrets of cooking like an Italian butcher with recipes for meats, fish, and vegetables that capture the spirit of Italy. Drawing on her years living and cooking in Umbria, Italy, and from the menu of her revered steakhouse, Chi Spacca (hailed as a "meat speakeasy" by Food & Wine), Silverton, and Chi Spacca's executive chef Ryan DeNicola, present their take on such mouth-watering dishes as Beef Cheek and Bone Marrow Pie; Coffee-Rubbed Tri-Tip; Fried Whole Branzino with Pickled Peppers and Charred Scallions; and Moroccan Braised Lamb Shanks. And vegetable dishes are given just as much attention, from fire-kissed Whole Roasted Cauliflower with Green Garlic Crème Fraîche; Charred Sugar Snap Peas with Yogurt, Guanciale, and Lemon Zest; Little Gems with Herb Breadcrumbs, Bacon Vinaigrette, and Grated Egg; Roasted Beets with Chicories, Yogurt, and Lemon Zest. Also included are Silverton's own spins on steakhouse classics such as Caesar salad, creamed corn, and mashed potatoes, as well as desserts, including, of course, her beloved butterscotch budino.

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Über die Autorin bzw. den Autor

NANCY SILVERTON is the co-owner of Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza, Chi Spacca, and Mozza2Go, in Los Angeles and Newport Beach, California. She is the founder of the La Brea Bakery and the only chef ever to be awarded both the Outstanding Chef and Outstanding Pastry Chef awards from the James Beard Foundation. She lives in Los Angeles. RYAN DeNICOLA is the Executive Chef at Chi Spacca in Los Angeles. CAROLYNN CARREÑO is a James Beard Award-winning journalist, the author of Bowls of Plenty, and the coauthor of many other cookbooks.

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Pork Shoulder Blade Chops with Chipotle and Apple Cider Syrup
 
Serves 4
 
Many of the cuts of pork that we offer at Chi Spacca are the result of our wanting to use the entire animal. This recipe is borne of that goal. The shoulder blade chop, which comes, obviously, from the shoulder, fulfills the expectations of a typical pork chop, which comes from the loin. Putting a cut like this on the menu introduces our customers not just to a cut they might not already know, but to the idea that there is a whole world of animal cuts out there, many of which they may not have tried. If you want to use the more widely known pork loin chops for this recipe, they will work, too.
 
If we were playing a game of what-goes-with-what, and you said, “Pork,” I’d say, “Apples.” The apple flavor is incorporated here in the form of an apple cider syrup that we glaze these chops with, something that also satisfies my love of acidic foods. We use Carr’s Ciderhouse Cider Syrup, an artisanal product from the Berkshires that my friend the food writer Ruth Reichl introduced me to when I was at her house in Hudson, New York. I liked it so much that she sent me home with a bottle. If you don’t want to seek out that product, we have provided a recipe for making a glaze using standard apple cider vinegar. Chipotle chiles are dried, smoked jalapeño chiles; they have a wonderful, deeply smoky flavor. If you can’t find chipotle chile powder, use sweet smoked paprika or another quality chile powder.
 
Ask your butcher for 2 (3/4-inch-thick) pork shoulder blade chops, about 1 pound each.

You will need a large platter to serve the chops.
 
For the Syrup
(if you are not buying Carr’s Ciderhouse Cider Syrup)
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup apple cider
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
 
For the Pork
1 tablespoon ground coriander seeds
1 tablespoon chipotle chile powder (or smoked sweet paprika or another chile powder)
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
2 (3/4-inch-thick) pork shoulder blade chops (about 1 pound
each)
 
For the Onions
2 large yellow Spanish onions, peeled and sliced into 1/2-inch rings
2 cups apple cider vinegar
 
To make the syrup, combine the apple cider vinegar, apple cider, and balsamic vinegar in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low to maintain a gentle simmer and cook for 30 to 40 minutes, until the liquid has reduced to a syrupy consistency.
 
To prepare the pork, first make the rub: grind the coriander seeds in a spice grinder and transfer them to a small bowl. Add the chipotle chile powder, salt, and brown sugar and stir to combine.
 
Put the chops in a baking dish or on a large plate. Sprinkle the rub evenly over the meat and use the meat to mop up any rub that falls onto the dish or plate. Set aside for 30 minutes to 1 hour to let the seasonings penetrate the pork and for the pork to come to room temperature.
 
Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill. Move all of the coals to one side of the grill so you have both direct and indirect heat. If you have a gas grill, preheat one side for high heat and leave one side of the grill with no heat on; if it is an option, close the lid on the side with no heat.
 
While the grill is heating, place the onions in a large sauté pan. Add the cider vinegar and bring it to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-high and gently boil the vinegar and onions for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until the onions are tender and the vinegar coats them like a glaze. Turn off the heat.
 
Place the pork chops on the grill over the direct heat and grill for about 4 minutes, until the undersides are golden brown with dark grill marks. Move the pork chops to the side of the grill where there is no flame and cook over the indirect heat, uncovered, for about 10 minutes, until the meat is firm to the touch. Remove the pork chops from the grill and place them on a large serving platter.
 
To serve, drizzle the apple cider syrup over the pork chops and lay the onions on and around the pork chops, leaving the meat in the center of the platter visible.
 
 
 
 
Asparagus al Cartoccio with Butter, Mint, and Parmesan
 
At one of my favorite restaurants in Tel Aviv, North Abraxass, I was served a dish of spinach stems al cartoccio, or spinach cooked in parchment. The paper packet came to the table unfolded, revealing the cooked green stems that were showered in Parmesan—so simple! It was obvious to me that the same cooking method would work on any long, slender vegetable. When I came home, I tried it with pencil asparagus. Cooking the slender asparagus spears in paper this way protects them from direct heat, so they retain their shape and color, rather than shriveling and drying up the way they do when roasted. They’re basically steamed, but the paper packet gives the dish that “Wow!” factor. It’s like a pretty present.
 
You will need a large platter to serve the asparagus packages.
 
1 pound pencil asparagus
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 fresh mint sprigs
Flaky sea salt
Fresh coarsely ground black pepper
A chunk of Parmesan for grating
 
Adjust the oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 450°F.
 
Lay a 13x18-inch sheet of parchment paper on a flat work surface with the long side parallel to the counter’s edge and have another sheet handy. Lay half of the asparagus lengthwise in the center of the paper. Sprinkle the kosher salt and scatter half of the butter cubes over the spears and lay one mint sprig on top. Bring the top and bottom edges of the paper together and fold them over tightly to seal closed. Fold the sides inward like you were wrapping a present without tape and press down hard to seal them closed, so the asparagus are tightly wrapped in the paper. Repeat, wrapping the remaining asparagus, along with the butter, kosher salt, and mint, in the second sheet of parchment paper.
 
Place the asparagus packages on a large baking sheet and roast for about 10 minutes, until the paper is golden brown and the butter is bubbling out of the packages. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and let the packages cool for 1 minute on the baking sheet.
 
To serve, lay the packages on a large platter. Cut a slit lengthwise down the middle of each package, being careful of the steam that will arise.
 
Peel the sides of the parchment apart to expose the asparagus; remove and discard the mint sprigs.
 
Crush about 1/2 teaspoon flaky sea salt between your fingertips over the asparagus inside each package and grind a few turns of pepper into each package. Use a fine Microplane to grate a generous layer of Parmesan over one side of each package of asparagus, leaving one side free of cheese so you can see the asparagus.
 
 

 
Little Gems with Herb Bread Crumbs, Bacon Vinaigrette, and Grated Egg
 
Serves 4
 
In 1979, the chef Jonathan Waxman hired me for my first pastry job at the legendary Santa Monica restaurant Michael’s. Jonathan is a master with vegetables and salads, and at the time, he was making a salad that was his spin on the classic French bistro frisée salad, which consists of lettuce, lardon, a poached egg, and a warm mustard dressing; I couldn’t get enough of it. I make mine with a grated rather than a poached egg, Little Gem lettuce, which is a new variety of small romaine lettuce whose crunchy, sturdy leaves hold up to the thick, tangy, mustardy dressing it’s tossed with. It is so...

Details zur Ausgabe

• Verlag: Knopf
• Erscheinungsdatum: 2020
• Sprache: Englisch
• ISBN 10: 0525654658
• ISBN 13: 9780525654650
• Einband: Gebundene Ausgabe
• Anzahl der Seiten: 384
• Kontakt zum Hersteller: Knopf; https://knopfdoubleday.com; ; 3 Queen Caroline Street Hammersmith; London; W6 9PE; Vereinigtes Königreich
• Verantwortliche Person: Nicht verfügbar