Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking: Traditional and Modern Recipes to Savor and Share - Hardcover

Wolfert, Paula

Hardcover

ISBN 10: 076457633X ISBN 13: 9780764576331

Verlag: Harvest, 2009

Inhaltsangabe

A one-of-a-kind cookbook showcasing modern and authentic clay pot cooking from the premier expert on Mediterranean cuisines

Paula Wolfert is legendary for her expertise on and explorations of Mediterranean cooking. Now, Wolfert shares her inimitable passion for detail and insatiable curiosity about cultural traditions and innovations, with Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking.

Here, the self-confessed clay pot "junkie"-having collected in her travels ceramic pots of all sorts: cazuelas, tagines, baking dishes, bean pots, Romertopf baking dishes, French diablos, ordinary casseroles, even Crockpots, which have a ceramic liner-shares recipes as vibrant as the Mediterranean itself along with the delightful stories behind the earthy pots, irresistible dishes, and outstanding cooks she has met along the way.

Wolfert demystifies the process of clay pot cooking by which fresh ingredients are transformed slowly, richly, lusciously into magnificent meals. She shares 150 recipes featuring soups, fish and shellfish, poultry, meats, pasta and grains, vegetables and beans, pies and breads, eggs and dairy, and desserts.

Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking offers

• Expert techniques and tips from Paula Wolfert, one of the world's foremost authorities on Mediterranean cuisine and now on clay pots
• An introduction to this ancient and modern-and practically foolproof-way of cooking
• A thorough clay pot primer, familiarizing you with the numerous names for different types of clay pots and tips on "Other Pots You Can Use"
• A delicious range of dishes, including Pumpkin Soup with Roquefort Cream; Wine-Marinated Chicken Thighs with Almonds and Sweet Tomato Jam; Fideos with Clams, Shrimps and Mussels; Tian of Leeks and Pancetta; Corsican Cheesecake; and Roasted Peach Gratin

Paula Wolfert in Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking will seduce you with the pleasures and benefits of cooking in clay.

Über diesen Titel

Über die Autorin bzw. den Autor

Paula Wolfert is an expert on Mediterranean food and the author of nine cookbooks, including The Food of Morocco, Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking, The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen, and The Cooking of Southwest France. Wolfert has won the James Beard Award, the Julia Child Award, the M. F. K. Fisher Award, and the Tastemaker Award, and was a finalist for the André Simon Award. A regular columnist for Food & Wine, Wolfert lives in Sonoma, California.

Von der hinteren Coverseite

Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking

Traditional and Modern Recipes to Savor and Share

Paula Wolfert

The World's Oldest

Cooking Style,

Made New Again

by the

Queen of Mediterranean Cooking

"Most food?and Mediterranean food in particular?tastes better cooked in clay. Think of the difference in taste between organically grown fruits and vegetables and typical supermarket agribusiness produce. The former always taste better. Similarly, unglazed clay vessels are also organic, since clay is a form of earth. Food cooked in them acquires a natural taste. When I taste heirloom beans cooked in a clay pot on top of the stove, I find a special sweetness in them. Just as food cooked in a wood-fired oven acquires the taste and aroma of wood, so food cooked in an unglazed clay pot acquires the taste and aroma of the earth."

?Paula Wolfert

Auszug. © Genehmigter Nachdruck. Alle Rechte vorbehalten.

Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking

Traditional and Modern Recipes to Savor and ShareBy Paula Wolfert

John Wiley & Sons

Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd
All right reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-7645-7633-1

Chapter One

First Courses

Roman Artichokes Braised with Garlic and Mint

SERVES 6 TO 8

Food and travel writer David Downie was kind enough to teach me some of his Italian mother's recipes for artichokes. One of them is my all-time favorite, especially successful when cooked in clay as presented here. It is inspired by the recipe for Roman-style artichokes in his superb Cooking the Roman Way.

Preferred Clay Pot:

A 3-quart glazed earthenware saucepan or casserole about 10 inches in diameter

If using an electric or ceramic stovetop, be sure to use a heat diffuser with the clay pot.

2 lemons, halved

6 to 8 tender young globe artichokes, preferably with long stems

5 garlic cloves, crushed

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup minced fresh spearmint

1/3 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 1/2 cups Italian dry white wine, preferably Frascati or Marino

1 Prepare the artichokes: Squeeze the juice of 1 lemon into a bowl of water large enough to hold all the artichokes. Working one by one, cut off the top third of the artichokes. Snap off the tough outer leaves near the base. Use a stainless-steel knife to cut off the stem; if the stems are tender, drop them into the bowl of acidulated water. Remove the hairy choke in the center of the artichoke with a melon scoop; then scrape along the inside wall of the artichoke bottom until smooth. Squeeze a little lemon juice into the center. After cleaning the inside, remove the remaining outer tough leaves by bending them backward and snapping them off where they break. Trim the outside of the artichoke to remove any tough dark green skin with a small paring knife or a swivel-bladed vegetable peeler. Rub the artichoke all over with a piece of cut lemon as you work. Drop the cleaned artichoke into the bowl. When all are cleaned, peel the stems and return them to the acidulated water.

2 In a small bowl, mash the crushed garlic with 1 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper. Work in 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, the mint, parsley, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper to a make a thick paste.

3 Remove the artichokes from the water and drain them well. Stuff the center of each with 2 to 3 teaspoons of the herbed garlic paste. Stand the artichokes side by side in the earthenware saucepan. Slip the peeled stems in between the artichokes. Sprinkle the artichokes with salt and pepper and drizzle on the remaining olive oil. Pour in the wine and 1 cup cold water.

4 Slowly bring to a boil over medium heat; cover with a sheet of parchment paper and the lid. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the artichokes are tender when poked with a fork, 30 to 40 minutes. Transfer the casserole to a wood surface or folded kitchen towel to prevent cracking. Serve warm or at room temperature with a fresh sprinkling of salt and pepper.

Sauted Asparagus with Brown Butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese

SERVES 2

This great asparagus preparation is a popular starter in northern Italy, where in many recipes butter-and not olive oil-is the fat of choice. Clarified butter is the key to this dish: When it hits the hot cazuela, it turns golden brown, intensifying the flavor and giving off a hazelnut-like aroma. Yes, you can make this dish with olive oil, but it really won't be the same.

To make a French variation, substitute either shredded Cantal cheese or crumbled bleu d'Auvergne for the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Preferred Clay Pot:

A 9-or 10- or 11-inch Spanish cazuela or a straight-sided flameware or La Chamba skillet

If using an electric or ceramic stovetop, be sure to use a heat diffuser with the clay pot.

12 fat green asparagus spears

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, clarified (see Note )

3 to 4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (1 1/2 ounces)

1 Preheat the oven to 400F. Line up the asparagus and trim off about 3 inches from the bottom of the spears. Peel the stalks from the base toward the top, stopping just before the tips.

2 Fill the cazuela with 1 inch of warm water. Set the pan over medium heat, add the salt, and bring to a boil. Arrange the asparagus in the cazuela in a single layer and cook, uncovered, until just tender, 5 to 7 minutes.

3 Drain off the water and return the cazuela to the stovetop. Immediately add half of the clarified butter to the hot pan and gently roll and toss the asparagus spears to coat them. Slowly allow the butter to turn golden brown over low heat; as soon as it does, stop the cooking by adding 1 teaspoon of lukewarm water. Sprinkle the cheese over the asparagus and transfer to the oven.

4 Bake for 5 to 7 minutes, until the cheese bubbles and a light crust forms. Set the cazuela on a wooden surface or folded kitchen towel to prevent cracking and serve right from the pan.

Note to the Cook: To clarify butter: Place 6 tablespoons sweet butter in a small saucepan. Set over very low heat. Allow the butter to melt slowly without stirring and without browning. Remove foam as it appears on the surface. When the butter is golden and clear, remove it from the heat and leave to cool. Carefully pour off the clear butter, leaving the sediment in the saucepan.

Asparagus and Truffled Ramps

SERVES 8

Here's a delicious starter that evokes springtime as well as any dish I know, pairing thin early asparagus with ramps, or wild leeks, which appear as one of the first greens in the forest.

Ramps and wild leeks are as close as sisters. In the Appalachians, where they grow wild, they're called ramps. Around the Great Lakes, where they're picked a little later, with a somewhat larger bulb and a slightly milder flavor, they're known as wild leeks. In the Bordeaux region of France, where they grow wild and are foraged in the vineyards, they're called baragnes. Yes, ramps are difficult to find, but you can substitute green garlic or baby cultivated leeks with fine results.

Truffles, of course, aren't really a springtime ingredient, so I use black truffle oil and then, to enhance the springtime effect, scatter a few sunflower sprouts on top just before serving-a distinctly California touch.

Preferred Clay Pot:

A 3-quart glazed or unglazed earthenware or flameware casserole or Chinese sandpot

If using an electric or ceramic stovetop, be sure to use a heat diffuser with the clay pot.

2 pounds ramps (about 5 dozen) or 1 pounds green garlic or baby leeks

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

4 pounds thin asparagus, ends trimmed, cut into 2-inch pieces

1/4 cup crme frache or heavy cream

4 ounces Serrano ham, coarsely chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3/4 teaspoon black truffle oil

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

3 tablespoons walnut oil

4 ounces tender sweet salad greens, such as baby spinach, young chard, pea shoots, orache, or lamb's-quarters, rinsed and dried

1 cup loosely packed sunflower sprouts (optional)

1 Clean the ramps: Cut off the green leaves and purplish stems. Trim the roots and peel the white bulb under cold running water to remove all traces of soil. Pat dry.

2 Place the clay casserole over low heat. Add the ramps and butter, cover with a sheet of crumpled wet parchment, and slowly raise the heat to medium until the ramps are sizzling softly. Cook, shaking the pan gently once or twice, until the ramps soften, 5 to 10 minutes.

3 Lift off the parchment and add the asparagus, cream, and ham. Season with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Toss gently, cover with the same parchment paper and the lid, and cook for 5 to 10 minutes longer, until the asparagus and ramps are tender. Drizzle on 1/2 teaspoon of the truffle oil and toss gently to combine. Transfer the casserole to a wooden surface or folded kitchen towel to prevent cracking.

4 With a slotted spoon, divide the asparagus, ramps, and ham among 8 plates. Continue to cook the creamy sauce until it is reduced to 2 to 3 tablespoons, about 2 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together the vinegar, oil, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon truffle oil. Whisk in the reduced creamy liquid and season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper to taste.

5 In a mixing bowl, toss half the vinaigrette with the baby greens. Drizzle the remaining vinaigrette over the ramps and asparagus on the plates. Garnish each serving with a bit of salad and top with a sprinkling of sunflower sprouts.

Note to the Cook: Ramps or wild leeks can be found regionally in early spring at farmers' markets or online at www.earthydelights.com.

Clay Pot-Roasted Eggplant with Cheese

SERVES 4

Here's a modern interpretation of an old Catalan dish. The combination of sweetened eggplant and cheese may strike you as strange, but, in fact, adding honey to offset the mild bitterness of eggplant really works.

The key here is slow-roasting the eggplant to achieve a rich, distinctive flavor and aroma. You can do this over coals, under the broiler, directly over the flame of a gas stovetop, or, my new favorite method, by placing an unpeeled eggplant in a dry Chinese sandpot and cooking it on the stovetop-the way potatoes and chestnuts are traditionally cooked in western France. The result is smoky, creamy, and intensely tasty.

This dish is lovely served in individual shallow earthenware cazuelitas or ramekins.

Preferred Clay Pots:

A 3-quart Chinese sandpot

4 individual shallow cazuelitas or small ramekins (6 ounces each)

If using an electric or ceramic stovetop, be sure to use a heat diffuser with the clay pot.

2 medium eggplants (12 ounces each), preferably organic

5 ounces sheep's milk cheese, such as Spanish Roncal or manchego, Italian ricotta salata, or Greek myzithra, grated (about 1 cup)

2 tablespoons milk

1 egg

1 egg yolk

1 scant teaspoon fine sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon honey, preferably lavender, rosemary, or blackberry

1 Rinse the eggplants; drain, trim off the top, prick each once with a sharp fork (to keep them from exploding), and place side by side in the sandpot. Cover and set over low heat. Gradually raise the heat to medium and cook, turning every 15 minutes, until the eggplants are blackened in spots and very soft, 30 to 40 minutes.

2 Set an oven rack on the highest rung. Preheat the oven to 350F. Meanwhile, set a colander in the sink and drop in the eggplants, slit each one, and let stand for 10 minutes, turning once, to drain off the brown juices.

3 When the eggplants are cool enough to handle, peel and place in a mixing bowl. Add two-thirds of the cheese, the milk, egg, and egg yolk; mix well, mashing the eggplant. Season with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Use half the butter to grease the cazuelitas or ramekins. Divide the eggplant mixture among them, flatten the tops, and sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Warm the remaining butter with the honey until fluid; drizzle over the tops.

4 Set the ramekins on a baking sheet and transfer to the oven. Immediately raise the heat to 450F. Bake for 20 minutes, or until the eggplant custards are golden brown and puffed on top. Serve warm.

Note to the Cook: This recipe can be made up to 4 hours in advance. Keep covered in a cool place. Reheat in a preheated 300F oven for 15 minutes.

Thanks to the late Catalan culinary expert Rudolf Grewe for translating this recipe from a medieval cookbook, Le Libre del Coch, by Robert de Nola, published in 1520.

Sicilian Caponatina with Olives, Pine Nuts, and Currants

MAKES 5 CUPS, SERVING 8

This recipe is inspired by one taught to me by Palermo-born Maria Sindoni, who shared her secrets with me at the kitchen stove in her restaurant Azzurro in New York back in the early eighties. While her version of this traditional dish has never bored me as others have, I must admit I've tampered with it over the years, adding a little more here, a little less there to make it my own. What I did not change, and what I found so inspiring, is Maria's method of cooking each vegetable separately to retain its natural flavor and texture.

If you follow my instructions closely in steps 1 and 5, you will not have the problem endemic to so many fried eggplant dishes: heaviness due to the vegetable's propensity to absorb large amounts of oil. By first soaking the eggplant in a water bath and then frying the vegetable in a cazuela, which keeps the temperature of the oil constant, you'll attain the lightest possible golden brown eggplant.

You can make this great appetizer spread several days in advance. It's one of those magical dishes that gets better and better as it mellows.

Preferred Clay Pot:

A 10-or 11-inch Spanish cazuela or an earthenware or straight-sided flameware skillet

If using an electric or ceramic stovetop, be sure to use a heat diffuser with the clay pot.

2 large eggplants (about 1 pounds each)

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon coarse salt

1/2 to 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

3 cups diced tender celery heart ribs with some leaves

3/4 cup canned tomato sauce

1 tablespoon finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar, or more to taste

1 tablespoon sugar

12 salted capers, rinsed and drained

12 Sicilian green olives, rinsed, pitted, and drained

3 tablespoons dried currants, soaked in warm water for 5 minutes and drained

Pinch of crushed hot red pepper

1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted (see Note)

24 large fresh basil leaves, stemmed

1 Cut the stems off the eggplants, peel them, and cut into 1-inch cubes. Place in a large bowl along with 2 tablespoons of the coarse salt and enough cold water to cover. Set a plate on top to keep the eggplants submerged and soak for 45 minutes.

2 Meanwhile, put 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, the onion, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 cup warm water in the cazuela and set over medium-low heat. Slowly warm the pan, raising the heat gradually, until the onion begins to cook. Continue to cook, stirring from time to time, until the water evaporates and the onion turns golden, about 15 minutes.

3 In a medium saucepan of boiling salted water, cook the celery for 10 minutes. Drain and add to the onion in the cazuela. Stir in the tomato sauce and sun-dried tomatoes and cook, stirring often, until the mixture sizzles and thickens to a jamlike consistency, about 10 minutes. Scrape into a bowl and let cool.

4 Without rinsing the cazuela, add the vinegar and sugar and cook over medium to medium-high heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is slightly reduced, about 3 minutes. Add the capers, olives, currants, and hot pepper and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Scrape the contents of the cazuela into the celery and tomato. Set the cazuela on a wooden surface or folded kitchen towel to prevent cracking and allow to cool down; then wash and dry.

5 Drain the eggplants, rinse under cold running water, and drain well. Squeeze to remove as much moisture as possible; then press dry with paper towels. (It doesn't matter if the eggplant cubes lose their shape.) Pour 1/3 cup of the remaining olive oil into the cazuela; carefully tilt the cazuela away from you on one side so the oil gathers on the opposite side. Slowly warm the oil over medium-low heat, raising the heat gradually to medium or medium-high, until the oil registers 340F. Reduce the heat to maintain the temperature. Add no more than 4 eggplant cubes at a time and fry until cooked through and golden brown all over, about 2 minutes per batch. With a slotted spoon, transfer the eggplant to paper towels to drain. Repeat until all the eggplant is browned, adding a few tablespoons more oil if needed. Total frying time should be about 20 minutes.

6 When all the eggplant is cooked, pour off the oil from the cazuela. Add the tomato mixture and cook for 20 seconds, stirring. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Let cool, then pack the caponatina into a jar, cover, and refrigerate. Return caponatina to room temperature before serving, garnish with a shower of toasted pine nuts and torn basil leaves.

(Continues...)

Excerpted from Mediterranean Clay Pot Cookingby Paula Wolfert Copyright © 2009 by John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. Excerpted by permission.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

Details zur Ausgabe

• Verlag: Harvest
• Erscheinungsdatum: 2009
• Sprache: Englisch
• ISBN 10: 076457633X
• ISBN 13: 9780764576331
• Einband: Tapa dura
• Anzahl der Seiten: 352
• Kontakt zum Hersteller: Nicht verfügbar
• Verantwortliche Person: Nicht verfügbar