Pants for Real People: Fit and Sew for Any Body! (Sewing for Real People) - Softcover

Palmer, Pati; Alto, Marta

Softcover

ISBN 10: 0935278966 ISBN 13: 9780935278965

Verlag: Palmer-Pletsch Associates, 2012

Inhaltsangabe

This pattern book features step-by-step instructions on fitting and sewing pants for women of all body types using the twin techniques of tissue fitting and fabric fitting. Important sewing choices are highlighted, including choosing fabrics, selecting appropriate alteration tools, and finding styles that are most flattering. The fit-as-you-sew process of making pants is illustrated with progressive photographs and step-by-step illustrations. A variety of styles are covered, including nonroll, expandable, and contour waistbands; side seam and patched pockets; and easy hems and cuffs. This updated second edition features refinements to the fitting and sewing information and has added instructions on the fitting and sewing of jeans and no-side-seam pants.

Über diesen Titel

Über die Autorin bzw. den Autor

Marta Alto is the coauthor of Fit for Real People, Jackets for Real People, The Serger Idea Book, and Sewing Ultrasuede. Pati Palmer is the CEO of Palmer/Pletsch Publishing, a designer and consultant for the McCall Pattern Company, and the author of Creative Serging, Mother Pletsch's Painless Sewing, and Sewing Ultrasuede. They both live in Portland, Oregon.

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Pants for Real People

Fit and Sew for Any Body!

By Pati Malmer, Marta Alto, Sue Neall, Connie Hamilton, Kate Pryka, Jeannette Schilling, Theresa O'Connell, Pati Palmer

Palmer/Pletsch Publishing

Copyright © 2012 Palmer/Pletsch Incorporated
All rights reserved.

ISBN: 978-0-935278-96-5

Contents

About the Authors, 
A Little History, 
1. The Palmer/Pletsch Approach to Pant Fitting, 
2. Pants Can Flatter You, 
3. Pant Fabrics, 
4. Buy the Right Size, 
5. Alteration Tools, 
6. Fit the Tissue, 
7. Fit-As-You-Sew, 
8. REAL People/Fitted Pants, 
9. Terrific Pleated Trousers, 
10. REAL People/Trousers, 
11. Cut, Mark, Sew, and Press, 
12. All About Darts, 
13. Zippers Made Easier, 
14. The Perfect Non-roll Waistband, 
15. Belt Loops the Easy Way, 
16. Comfortable, Expandable Waistbands, 
17. Pull-on Pants in Any Fabric-Knits or Wovens, 
18. Faced and Contour Waistlines, 
19. Side Seam and Patch Pockets, 
20. Classic Trouser Pockets, 
21. Welt Pockets, 
22. Easy Hems and Cuffs, 
23. Lining and Underlining, 
24. Jumpsuits & Culottes, 
25. Jeans, 
26. Pants for Men, 
27. Altering Pants for Weight Change, 
28. Design Ideas for the Creative, 
Metric Conversions Chart, 
Index, 
Other products from Palmer/Pletsch, 

CHAPTER 1

The Palmer/Pletsch Approach to Pant Fitting

• The Palmer/Pletsch Approach to Pant Fitting

• IT'S EASY!

• IT'S PRACTICAL!

• IT APPLIES TO ALL PATTERN COMPANIES!

• IT'S NEARLY MEASURE-FREE!

• THERE'S NO NEED TO DRAFT PANTS FROM SCRATCH!

• THERE'S NO NEED TO MAKE A MUSLIN!

1. Buy the right size pattern.

2. Tissue-fit the pattern.

3. Alter and refit the pattern.

Does the fitting approach described here sound too good to be true? After fitting thousands of women in pants since the '70s and perfecting pant fitting techniques, a proven method is now taught by Palmer/Pletsch instructors worldwide. For the first time, they will share with YOU what they've learned about tissue-fitting pants!

Learning to fit pants is a process. The more you do it, the better you get. Once you get a pattern to fit, all you will have to do is pin-fit each fabric you sew. Fabrics all drape differently, so "tweaking" the fit on your body will always be necessary.

4. Pin-fit the fabric.

5. Enjoy the final pair of pants.

CHAPTER 2

Pants Can Flatter You

What pant style is best for your figure? Our philosophy is that any figure type can wear any style as long as it fits properly. Even a person with a large tummy can look nice in a pant with a waistband and the appropriate top. Good fit can make you look 10 pounds thinner! With pants that fit, you will be liberated to wear more variety and to look more fashionable!

Which Pant Styles Are Most Flattering?

Tight pants show off your shape, so unless your shape is perfect, looser pants are universally better for both thinner and heavier bodies. Even a narrow-leg pant will be more flattering if the narrowing is gradual rather than beginning just below the tummy and derriere.

Trousers are a very flattering style since they are loose-fitting and have vertical lines that make you look taller and slimmer. Jeans, on the other hand, are designed to fit tightly, often with no "ease" in the hips. See page 20 for information on ease including the "pinch test."

More ease isn't always more flattering, however. A full pant on a petite person can be overwhelming, and a full pant can make a large person look larger.

The good news is that ANY style of pants will be flattering IF THE PANTS FIT. Ease is a personal preference and can be changed to suit the wearer, but it is good to know the amount of ease built into the various styles available so you will know what to expect when you buy a pattern.

Pant Styles and Standard Waist, Hip, and Crotch Depth Ease

Leggings — knit pants that stretch to fit the body. Originally they were used for exercising, but moved into fashion in the 1990s. Unless you have a perfect shape, always wear a long top over them, to cover the derriere.

Traditional jeans — very fitted except in the waist (so you can bend over!). Originally a functional pant for riding horses. Extra crotch ease would cause chafing and saddle sores!

Plain fitted pants — a nice basic, with minimal bulk in the tummy area, especially for wearing with sweaters and tops that are not tucked in.

Classic trousers — have slanted pockets, fly front, pleats, and a front crease pressed up to one of the pleats ... lots of vertical lines. For the most flattering look, press the deeper pleat and crease flat to the thigh.

Modified trousers — may have slanted trouser pockets and a fly front zipper, but no pleats or crease. Nice if you want a fitted pant with pockets.

Culottes — pants with a longer crotch. They look like a skirt, so the longer crotch just adds comfort without looking baggy.

Full evening pants — these must be made of very soft drapey fabrics to be flattering. If you are heavy or petite, buy a smaller size with less ease for the most flattering look.

Flattering Fabrics

If you are heavy or short, avoid bulky or stiff fabrics, tweeds, plaids, wide-wale corduroy, and shiny fabrics. They add visual weight. Wool gabardine or wool crepe, microfiber polyester gabardine, and linen-like fabrics are universally flattering pant fabrics. They are heavy enough to drape over and camouflage body bulges, yet not so heavy or textured that they add bulk. Our favorite pant fabric is wool crepe because it is easy to sew, drapes well, and just seems to mold to fit your body.

Pant Colors

The most versatile colors are the basics: taupe, beige, black, brown, ecru, gray and navy. You can wear many colors of tops with them. They are also seasonless. If you have a navy wool gabardine pant, you can wear it all year round in most climates. Wool breathes. Pants in colors other than neutrals will be much less versatile, and then each pair will provide limited options in your wardrobe and you will need more pairs of pants to coordinate with your tops.

Use Color to Your Advantage

Your eyes see light, bright, and shiny colors first, so if you want to de-emphasize your hip width, avoid these colors on the bottom. Use them to call attention to your face. Study these drawings to see how color can enhance your figure:

Very light top and dark bottom with strong contrast shorten figure with horizontal line.

Medium light top and medium dark bottom won't cut the figure in half, yet the eye is still drawn to the face.

Monochromatic (same color) top and bottom is elongating. Colors can be of slightly different shades.

Jacket and pant in same color create a full-length vertical line. Light blouse draws eye to face. This is the most slimming look of all.

Building a Pant Wardrobe

Carry swatches of your wardrobe fabrics on a card in your purse to use for color matching while shopping. You will plan better and will look smarter on a much smaller budget.

Also, keep in your wallet the amount of yardage you need for 45", 54", and...

Details zur Ausgabe

• Verlag: Palmer-Pletsch Associates
• Erscheinungsdatum: 2012
• Sprache: Englisch
• ISBN 10: 0935278966
• ISBN 13: 9780935278965
• Einband: Taschenbuch
• Zeichner: Pryka Kate, Schilling Jeanette, O'Connell Theresa
• Auflage: 2
• Anzahl der Seiten: 176
• Kontakt zum Hersteller: Nicht verfügbar
• Verantwortliche Person: Anja's; service@anja-karge.de; ; Von-Gumppenberg-Str. 94; Pöttmes; 86554; Deutschland