The Crown Maple Guide to Maple Syrup: How to Tap and Cook With Nature's Original Sweetener - Hardcover

Turner, Robb

 
9781419722486: The Crown Maple Guide to Maple Syrup: How to Tap and Cook With Nature's Original Sweetener

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Sixty-five sweet and savory maple recipes, plus tons of tips, trivia, and photos!

The Crown Maple Guide to Maple Syrup is the ultimate guide to maple syrup, with sixty-five recipes, instructions on tapping and evaporating, and an overview of the fascinating history of maple syrup in the United States. Not just a cookbook, it offers a comprehensive look into the world of maple syrup, complete with archival images and tutorials on the process.

With recipes for maple-pecan sticky buns, maple-glazed duck, maple lemon bars, and much more, this beautifully illustrated guide comes from the producers of Crown Maple, a leading organic maple syrup—carried by gourmet food markets and used in many of the world’s best kitchens, including NoMad, Eleven Madison Park, Bouchon, Lincoln, and more.

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Über die Autorin bzw. den Autor

Robb Turner is owner of Madava Farms in the Hudson River Valley, home to Crown Maple Syrup. Jessica Carbone is a native New Englander and culinary writer, editor, and historian based in Washington, DC.

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As the leading organic maple syrup on the market, Crown Maple produces top-quality syrups. Its syrups are so good that they’re not only carried by a host of gourmet food markets, but also used in the world’s best kitchens, including NoMad, Eleven Madison Park, Bouchon, Lincoln, and more. The Crown Maple Guide to Maple Syrup is the ultimate guide to maple syrup, with 65 sweet and savory recipes, instructions on tapping and evaporating, and an overview of the fascinating history of maple syrup in the United States. Crown Maple owner Robb Turner offers a comprehensive look into the world of maple syrup, complete with archival images and tutorials on the process. After you learn everything you need to know about maple syrup, move into the kitchen with recipes inspired by Robb and his wife Lydia’s home kitchen. Try the maple-pecan sticky buns, the maple-glazed duck, or maple lemon bars. Beautifully designed, with a mix of detailed process illustrations from tap to bottle and enticingly photographed recipes, this book is the perfect reference and keepsake for every maple syrup lover.

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The Crown Maple Guide to Maple Syrup

How to Tap and Cook with Nature's Original Sweetener

By Robb Turner, Jessica Carbone, Tina Rupp, Kate Francis

Abrams Books

Copyright © 2016 Madava Holdings, LLC
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-4197-2248-6

Contents

INTRODUCTION,
PART ONE THE HISTORY OF OUR TASTE FOR MAPLE SYRUP,
PART TWO THE SCIENCE OF GROWING, TAPPING, AND EVAPORATING SAP INTO SYRUP,
PART THREE COOKING WITH MAPLE SYRUP,
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS,
ABOUT THE AUTHOR,
WORKS CONSULTED,
INDEX OF SEARCHABLE TERMS,


CHAPTER 1

The HISTORY OF OUR TASTE FOR MAPLE SYRUP


1 The Early American Experience of Maple S

The Trees
Native Americans and the Origins of Maple Syrup
The Arrival of the Sugar-Loving Settler
The Early Maple Industry


2 Maple's Big Boom and Bust: A Century of Maple Ups and Downs, 1860–1950

Expanding the Maple Producer's Marketplace
Advances in Maple Technology
Adulterations and Imitations
Sugar-Loving Policies and Prices
Changing of the Maple Guard
A Newfound Respect for Regional Cuisine


3 The Renaissance of Forests and Maple Syrup Makers, 1970–Present

New Technologies
New Producers in the New Hudson Valley
Ensuring a Sustainable Maple Supply


1

The Early American Experience of Maple Syrup


Much of what we experience of maple syrup today remains untouched by time and history. This is true not only of the maple landscape itself, but also of the processes for producing maple syrup. These have remained largely intact — a true rarity in our modern food landscape. While we've found new ways to produce almost every kind of food product in America, from tomatoes to fish to chickens to wheat, the maple tree remains unique in continuing to need the same basic conditions to produce syrup.

There are several species of maple trees, but the king of all of these is the sugar maple (Acer saccharum), and it is the type most frequently used for maple syrup production. Sugarbushes (clusters of maple trees) can be found throughout New England, New York, and Pennsylvania, as well as spread across parts of the Great Lakes region and southern Canada. They reach as far south as Tennessee, and stretch to the west as far as Missouri. Each of these trees needs a good sloppy spring, with warm days that melt winter's base of snow and lightly freezing nights, to release its sap, and the syrup that results is never too far away from the taste of the tree itself. It is one of North America's most recognizable flavors and most symbolic foods, as significant to the Northeast as wild salmon is to the Pacific Northwest, pecans to the Deep South, or corn and maize to the Southwest. When I taste our maple syrup each sugar season, I know that I taste the place it's from, the time it was grown, and the many legacies of the people who have tapped it before me.


THE TREES

However, these trees are not limited to North America. The roots of the maple family tree (genus Acer) extend to Asia, originating in China during the Cretaceous period (over 130 million years ago). The plant spread west into Europe, and far south to the Philippines. It may have first appeared in North America by way of eastern Siberia, initially appearing on American soil in Alaska and spreading to the East Coast. Fossils tell us that the biggest boom of maple tree growth was during the Miocene epoch, about 23 to 5.3 million years ago, with hundreds of thousands of species flourishing across the world. Today there are still 124 different species of maple trees present and growing throughout the world. Thirteen of those species are native to North America — the climate that the trees require can be found throughout the Midwest and mid-Atlantic all the way up to Ontario, Quebec, and New Brunswick. There are even a few species of maple on the West Coast and in the Deep South — you can find bigleaf and Douglas maples in Washington State and Oregon, canyon maples in the Rocky Mountains and scattered throughout Texas and Oklahoma, and Florida or hammock maples running from southern Virginia to central Florida. While all maple trees can be tapped for edible sap, sugar maples are widely considered to produce the most superior flavor and quality of finished syrup.

The botany of sugar maples is fairly similar to that of other hardwood trees; like oak and willow trees, maples are deciduous, meaning that they release their leaves seasonally. (For more on the differences between sugar maples and red maples, and the different ways to spot them, see this page) Sugar maple flowers are generally wind-pollinated (rather than by bees), and produce samaras, a winged papery fruit that allows the seeds to be carried far from the tree to pollinate elsewhere. (You might recognize them as the flat paperlike propellers that catch on the wind like a helicopter blade, and are also known as spinning jennys or whirligigs.) Also like oaks and willows, maples are vascular plants, with the xylem in the tree's tissue conducting water and nutrients up and down the trunk and branches. The xylem tissues function like a complex network of tubes, connecting the water-absorbing roots of the tree and the oxygen-breathing leaves of the tree's crown. If you were to look at a cross section of a sugar maple, you would see, just under the flaking outer bark, the inner bark, or phloem, which conducts sugars from the leaves to the rest of the living cells of the tree. You would then see a layer of growing cells called the vascular cambium, which produces the xylem as it grows (creating rings of xylem as the tree grows), and then beyond that, the first ring of xylem, called the sapwood. The unique quality of the maple tree is that its sap can be accessed barely ¼ inch into the tree, yet because typically less than 10 percent of the tree's sap is being removed during each sugaring season, the tree still receives all of its necessary water and nutrients even as it is being tapped. (This is also part of the reason why maple wood is so porous and adaptable for the decorative arts, an issue we'll come to in the later part of this chapter.)

Sugar maple trees can grow as tall as 90 feet, with their canopies (or crowns) spreading as wide as 80 feet. The trees, meanwhile, could be hundreds of years old, and as wide as 50 inches in diameter. When we built our facility on our Madava estate in 2010, we sadly had to cut down one old maple that an expert dated back to around the mid-1840s. We have many other maples that we believe are much older, including a few 40-inch-diameter trees that are unfortunately on their last leg of life. I can't help but be in awe of these trees, thinking of mankind's history that their lives have spanned. The age and density of these maple tree groves, in fact, was the thing that was most distinctive for arriving settlers to the American shores. In Europe, more than 50 percent of old-growth forests had been cut down as early as the Middle Ages — imagine the astonishment of the European settlers as they approached American shores to discover huge forests of immense density and in vast abundance. These trees predated any kind of human interference, and certainly predated the industry that Natives or settlers would produce.


NATIVE AMERICANS AND THE ORIGINS OF MAPLE SYRUP

The American landscape these Europeans encountered seemed utterly wild — yet the land was far from undeveloped, and...

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