Bonus Time: Extreme Lives and Second Chances features six compelling biographies. Each story follows the life path of extraordinary individuals to the moment they faced life greatest challenge, their own mortality.
Each pursued their dreams with a passion. Their lives were propelled and fulfilled thru their learned ability to find calm in the powerful realm of the surf.
For each of them the joy and beauty of surfing provided an escape from the challenges of everyday life. Adrenaline fueled interactions in the surfing line ups led them to form tight bonds with others out in the water with them.
The stories of surfing successes and failures are the foundation of surfing culture. The stories told in this book are the stuff of surfing legend.
Like all human endeavors at the extremes of human ability sometimes when the waves were too big, their abilities too limited, or the moments of balance too fleeting. It was at that moment they faced a reality their friends and families feared most. They suffered massive wipeouts, severe injuries, and put their own lives in the balance.
Many might have left surfing and chalked the experience up to lessons learned. This was not the case for these legendary surfers.
Join them on their journey out into the big waves and discover their secrets to a full and meaningful life.
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Anbieter: Better World Books: West, Reno, NV, USA
Zustand: Good. Pages intact with minimal writing/highlighting. The binding may be loose and creased. Dust jackets/supplements are not included. Stock photo provided. Product includes identifying sticker. Better World Books: Buy Books. Do Good. Bestandsnummer des Verkäufers 55129938-75
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