CHAPTER 1
The Basics
There are a number of basic recipes and techniques in making ices and to avoid needless repetition these are given in detail below. However, before starting to make any ices, please read our advice on hygiene and the proper handling and storage of ices, as well as the instructions concerning fridges and freezers; these basics are important.
Hygiene
Firstly, all equipment used in the making of ices should be kept scrupulously clean. Ideally, those items that can should be put through a dishwashing machine. Otherwise, they should be washed in hot soapy water, rinsed in very hot water and left to dry in the air, rather than dried with a cloth.
We carry out this washing process before and after each session. So, in effect, all items are doubly clean.
Always refer to the manufacturer's instructions concerning the cleaning of machine parts. After each ice-making session we recommend the machines themselves are wiped over with a clean cloth wrung out in sterilising solution; the sort and strength that is used for sterilising babies' bottles.
Ices, if badly handled, can provide an ideal breeding ground for all sorts of undesirable organisms, so it is important to bear in mind a few fundamental principles.
Most food-borne bacteria can be destroyed by heat. Bear in mind that above 63°C/145°F they start to die.
They are rendered inactive and unable to multiply at such low temperatures. They multiply most rapidly at temperatures around human blood heat. At temperatures slightly above or below they can still multiply, but do so at a slower rate.
At temperatures below 10°C/50°F they are not killed but the rate of multiplication slows considerably as the temperature drops from this point. For the ice-cream maker the main aim and object is to move the mixture through this critical temperature range around blood heat, as quickly as possible, thereby minimising the potential for bacterial growth. Therefore we recommend that as soon as a custard has reached 85°C/185°F and is thickened, it should be cooled to below 10°C/50°F as quickly as possible. To do this, plunge the pan containing the custard into a bowl of cold water. Cover and leave, stirring occasionally, until the custard is cool enough to put into the fridge.
NOTE: It may be necessary to change the water in the bowl if it becomes tepid.
The custard can now be transferred to a jug, covered and refrigerated. In this state it is perfectly safe to store overnight in the fridge as long as it is kept well away from any strongly smelling or uncooked or raw foods.
In uncooked ices such ingredients as cream and milk should be pre-chilled before mixing together, and then churned and frozen immediately.
The only other area that should give rise to concern is when a made ice is taken from the freezer and thawed sufficiently to eat, and the remainder then re-frozen. From the health aspect, it is unwise to carry out this process more than twice. It will also interfere with the consistency of the ice. Do not attempt to re-freeze any ice that has fully thawed to a liquid state.
Fridges and freezers
Most people do not know the running temperature of either their fridge or freezer; we advise the purchase of thermometers (see Equipment page 55) so that you can get to know the variations of temperature, according to use and season. This can be quite an eye-opener.
The recipes in this book are based on the running temperature of a fridge at 4°C/39°F and freezer at -18°C/0°F.
Remember: An overloaded or iced-up fridge or freezer will not function properly. They also need to be level to operate efficiently.
Always check before you start that there is sufficient space in the freezer to accommodate the newly made ice. If you are using a canister-type machine, allow enough time for the insert to be completely frozen.
If you have a fast-freeze button or switch on your freezer, use it; switching it on ahead of time, if necessary. The use of this facility is particularly beneficial when still freezing to ensure the fast growth of small ice crystals to give a smooth-textured ice.
Basic Recipes
Water Ices
All the recipes for water ices (i.e. sorbets and granitas), as well as the hybrid sherbets and the parfaits, are based on a sugar syrup. This sugar syrup is always the same throughout the book. It is the lynchpin of the book and it could not be easier to make.
Sugar Syrup
Sugar syrup is a combination of sugar and water, also referred to by cooks and chefs as simple or stock syrup.
Unfortunately this is made by different people in varying strengths and it is often impossible to know what the recipe writer intended – which is absurd when the success of an ice depends on it.
We have used a standard sugar syrup instead of different quantities of sugar and water in each recipe because it is quicker and easier to use a syrup rather than measuring and mixing small quantities of sugar and water each time. More importantly, a standard syrup establishes a basis from which any fruit, vegetable or herb can be formulated into a successful recipe for sorbets, granitas and spooms. For a full explanation see Science chapter page 305.
Our sugar syrup is:
1 kilo of sugar to 1 litre of water or
5 cups sugar to 4 cups water or
2 lb 3 oz sugar to 32 fl oz water
This makes 1600 ml/6 2/3 cups/54 fl oz of syrup
You need a large 2 litre/8 cup/4 pint measuring jug.
Pour 1 litre/4 cups/2 pints of boiling water into the jug and stir in the sugar. Stir until the sugar has dissolved, which takes less than half a minute. Cool, cover, then refrigerate. That is all you need to do.
We prefer to put a vanilla bean in the measuring jug, then pour in the boiling water, and then add the sugar. The vanilla bean is left in the syrup for as long as the syrup remains in the fridge.
The chart on pages 306 to 307 gives the measurements for making smaller quantities of this syrup, if necessary.
There are elaborate instructions in some books on making syrups, boiling and skimming them for anything up to 10 minutes. This is simply not necessary unless you have suspect water. Why do these myths go on being perpetuated by cooks and chefs who should know better?
Sugar syrup in small quantities (see pages 306 to 307) can be made with cold water taken straight from the tap. If you can be bothered to stand...
